Suzuki recognizes this issue because the street-only SM model (the supermoto) comes stock with 15/41 front/rear sprocket combo while the off-road only E model comes with 14/47 equivalent to a 9 tooth difference on the rear sprocket just to make the bike good at either pavement only or dirt only. Shows the Gearing Commander Privacy Policy. Suspension is excellent esp on post 02 models as it is the same as that on the E model, Pre 02 models should be avoided due to soft soggy suspension. I've never had any serious, mysterious issues. I must have missed it when you first posted That's a really good chart because the DRZ specs are already in it, and you can just use it right off the page without the need to download any b.s. Great fun bike to ride. 15/47 for longer outback trips.Has been clocked at 160 KPH with this gearing. The stock DRZ S model tries to split the difference between the E and SM models by running a 15/44 sprocket combo, resulting in gearing that is simultaneously a bit too high for tough dirt riding and too low for sustained highway speeds. Taped these up & it now runs fine (doesnt pull as strongly, but much quieter) I would be interested to know what is available & worth fitting to improve performance as seen some stuff on the net but want to spend my money on the right gear. It dosnt matter what everyone else runs, It's whats right for you, where are you going to be riding? That being said, I dont live in the mountains and, therefore, dont have many opportunities to ride long or steep uphill pavement sections. Around town is a joy, ultra agile and the high seat position gives a good all round view. After you've read this review and our owners' reviews, you may want to join the Suzuki Owners' Club to find out more and talk to current owners. A forum community dedicated to SuperMoto owners and rally enthusiasts. Currently restricted to 33bhp so haven't bothered with any mods until that comes off next year. I've been riding sportbikes for 6 years, mainly gsx-r's, which were all mighty great bikes but not in the environment I was spending most of my time. He did a great job. Best point is it runs very smoothly, with vibration coming in around 65mph. Negatives: A little heavy to lift back up when green laneing if you accidentally put it down!, Saddle not brilliantly comfortable for long periods of road riding. I took the engine to him and he did the gears and the big bore kit. It can deal with this and it didn't feel underpowered which is testament to its torquey nature. var sc_invisible=0; Then a friend alerted me that Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) had come out with a wide ratio transmission for the DRZ and the idea was planted in my brain build a true dual sport adventure out of the DRZ. Despite getting on for 20 years old now, the DRZ 400 S is still a really popular model for those who enjoy a bit of light trail riding (remember, green lanes require your bike to be road legal and with an MOT) and if you go to forums such as Thumper Talk, which is all about single cylinder bikes, you will find a whole section dedicated to the DRZ 400. If you place your order now we will call with the shipping rate. Ive had my drz for 5 years and in that time I've travelled 9000k's or there abouts. It has all the settings in the data base for the 400 E. I have a SM with a 150/60-17 rear tyre (2.733) Final reduction ratio. If the bike looks a bit tatty, dont worry as complete body kits are cheap to buy and you can even get a bigger capacity tank for serious adventuring. However all of this is to be expected from an enduro bike and if you want more road performance, there is an alternative. In general, up one tooth in the front would be similar to down three teeth in the back. This was a huge help. In the UK they remain a very popular bike with TRF members, so their forum is also worth putting up a post on if you want to know a bit more about them. The suspension is also built with off-road in mind and that means a wallowy ride (the weight of a pillion makes the shock almost hit the end of its travel) and the single two-piston front caliper is pretty weak in its performance. Why did you opt to go up one in the front vs. down 3 in the back? If I get around to cams and carb, I'll likely go back to 38 in the rear. I've got a 05 DRZ400E, and am running the 13 on the front aswell, the rear is stock, I prefer the 13 on the front because it's a bit touqyer at lower speeds for the tight stuff, ruts, and hills but yes on the fire trails another gear would be very nice, but I 'm staying with this setup.. Read what they have to say and what they like and dislike about the bike below. The ergos are perfect for city commuting and the bike feels almost weightless. "On the road they seem to grip just as well as any road going tyre also. amazing great for pulling around cars and can cruise quite well, i have had my drz for 7 years its a 2002 model. Thanks so much for the info! The fact there are so many DRZs still plodding about the UKs trails tells you all you need to know. In terms of buying one, the DRZ isnt really much of a bargain. I haven't heard of people changing just 2 teeth in the back, always up 3 or down 3. If you had the bike loaded down and riding highway speed in 5th gear I think the bike might struggle maintaining speed trying to climb a long or steep hill. It has sat for 3 months at a time and it will start first time. I've also ran 15/39 which is super smooth at 75mph, probably less than 7k rpm iirc. Thmuper, The owner of ACT posted some RPM/Speed charts on Thumper Talk to give riders an idea of the difference between a stock DRZ and one with the ACT gears installed. Would the ACT gears allow you to run 14/47 to meet your dirt needs but still provide a high enough 5th gear for highway speeds? This might be due to the DRZ being seriously reliable. In order to address my first concern I added a big bore kit from Cylinder Works. What's a normal burn rate in your opinion? The DR-Zs single cylinder motor is a good old-fashioned plodder and with a double overhead cam, four valves and a water-jacket is hardly being stressed to produce 39bhp and 29ft.lb of torque. You dont get much as standard on a DRZ and aside from the helpful seat-mounted tool kit (which by now will probably have had its contents pilfered) and a degree of adjustability in its suspension (the preload can be altered at both ends) thats your lot. If the rate is NOT approved by you then we will cancel your order. But I was never able to decrease the buzz to a level I was completely comfortable with. If I decide that it's geared to low while on the trip I'll order a 38T rear sprocket and change it when I get back. Even with a 14/47 combo 5th gear is still higher than a stock DRZ S model running the 15/44 sprocket combo. I just changed to 14/50 and find it much better especially in tight single trail and climbing. My thought process was that the big bore kit would compensate for the reduction in acceleration from the wide ratio transmission. It has such a playful personality it hurts. Can easily be pepped up with the 3x3 mod. Conversely, if you gear it low for the dirt then the engine will really be screaming (running high RPMs) at highway speeds. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Enter gear to display top speed of (help): (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Buy another? Since it's all about ratios, I would put a smaller sprocket in the rear, where there aren't issues. I think I'll be going back to the 14. (Only for site supporters of version 5.0 - 6.3 !). Much appreciated. SinceSeptember 20th, 2005: VAT no 918 5617 01 January 27, 2008 in DRZ400/E/S/SM. I don't know how, after this long, it is still developing 33bhp and 25lb-ft of torque, even taking into account the drop from manufacturer's stated at crank. It becomes even more noticeable when riding uphill in difficult terrain 1st can easily be too slow for the best climbing speed but 2nd gear will be too fast for the terrain. I was getting about 50 miles per gallon (mpg) before I made the changes to the DRZ. This said, when I get a more powerful, faster and more high maintenance machine, I will definitely miss the DRZ, and will probably end up buying one again, just for the character of it. But it would not be correct to say it is perfect or that other bikes including the TE610, TE630, 690R, X-Challenge, and XR650L could not serve me as well as the DRZ. The main comments are the thin, hard seat and the inability to reach 70mph on the motorway, but most users love their bikes. Recently I fitted it with Avon Distanzia trail tyres and it has much improved the handling on the icy roads of Scotland. GPS Speed in Km/h at RPM in Gear in selected setup: GPS Top speed for 49 final drive combinations in Km/h at M.P.RPM in Custom setup: RPM differences due to drive train setup changes: Chain Links Calculator for Generic Final Drive with new chain, Loaded Bike: Effect of final drive changes on links & wheel position. Dave. Your notes on the build and personal observations are very insightful..I have book marked this write up to point others to, when they ask about the ACT wide ratio gears and are they right for me: An eternally difficult question to answerAnd on occasion I have said yes, and the rider was not as enthusiastic as you were.. to each his own. Get free owners or service manuals as Thank You gift for donating. The DRZ doesnt do anything that will blow you away; it just doesnt do anything badly. If so how hard was it. Check out the Supermoto scene in Australia at. Living here in Scotland this bike was the best all rounder I ever owned and I used it all year round - sun or snow. I've had mine to 139kph before the rev limiter cut in with the 13 tooth front sprocket. And it crashes well too - I looped it in 5th doing 80mph and all the damage went to the rear lights, sidestand and handlebar cover. I decided to buy a DRZ, add the ACT wide ratio transmission and a big bore kit, and build the bike Suzuki should already be making. And the SM fulfils the task admirably. I also dont live in the desert where I might find myself running 50-60 mph cross country. Answer these questions and you will answer your first question. Strengths: gem of an engine with bags of character. I can usually cruise 70mph at 7k rpm with stock gearing which is 15/41 I think. The problem with running a 13 tooth front sprocket is that it is a smaller diameter than the stock 14 tooth and will wear the swing arm chain guide near the swingarm/frame pivot bearing quicker and may cut into the swingarm if its not kept an eye on. I would love the opportunity to own and ride every dual sport adventure bike on the market I want to ride them all. My mate's KTM 690's and 525EXC leave it behind of course. If you can get one for under 2000 you should be happy, but paying much over this mark is a bit silly when you consider you can get a Yamaha XT660R for 2500, which is just as rugged but has a bigger motor making it better for road riding, or a Honda CRF250L for about the same amount and they are superb bikes for light trail riding. 14/47 will allow you to still do single track and cruise on 100kph on the road. Going Big no replacement for displacement, DRZ finally, a wide ratio transmission | The Texas Adventure Company. But what else does it need? As a point of comparison Kawasaki KLR riders will often change the front sprocket size by 1 tooth in order to bias the KLR toward dirt or street, which is a far cry from the DRZ needing an equivalent 9 tooth change in order to make it suitable for dirt or street duty. Its not for a pillion. In order to post comments, please make sure JavaScript and Cookies are enabled, and reload the page. . However, if you want a bike that can do both harder dirt riding and sustained highway riding at 70 mph then the DRZ transmission is sadly lacking. Is speedometer effected by sprocket and tire changes? It was under a year old in 2012 Paid R45,000. :hmmm: With 15/41 in 5th your RPM is almost exactly 100 x your speed in MPH. A lot of the forums suggest preventative measures to help keep the DRZ reliable, so check these out and see if they make sense to do and are within your skill set. The only real point to own a gixer was trackdays which happens like 2 or 3 times a year. And can actually go off road. Other than this, and against what most people would recommend, it hasn't been re-jetted or 3x3'd, (the airbox mod with a hole cut to increase air flow). Fantastic looking bike, i took the Akropovic off & sold on Ebay for 300, it was really loud, and the bike was running lean with it on. I did not use the wide ratio gears on a stock engine. sprockets). And, Lord willing, Ill get to enjoy even more before my riding career is over. However they are rather expensive, but well worth it for your own safety. Tons of good stuff in there, including a gearing spreadsheet. If the bike doesnt start, check the switch on the clutch lever, which is prone to failing, and also the side-stand cut-out switch. Always been too busy hanging on to use the clutch with the original 14/47! The motor revs significantly less and I attain a speed thats quite sufficient. Love the look of it & as my first roadbike although nothing to compare against it handles great (although fell off on grass the other day). Doesn't like to cruise much above 60mph on stock gearing. Does the Wide ratio gears need the BB? ratios etc. Id rather buy one done correctly then try to get this done myself. The DRZ-400S is still fast, managing between 5-6 seconds 0-60 or so from stock, varying due to the rider's skill. I actually like the 13/47 combo, took me a while to get used to it though. Whoops, sorry somehow I missed it all the way down there in the Misc. So after looking in 5th gear @ 7600 rpm I am traveling 93 MPH right? 20 owners have reviewed their SUZUKI DRZ400S (2001 - 2009) and rated it in a number of areas. I've resently gone from a 14 to a 13 and don't particularly like it. My second concern was that the gap between 1st and 2nd gears would be too wide. Use Google Custom Search to search the entire GC site. Bought my Suzuki DRZ400S last month for 2100. It increases the max speed of each gear, without having to do any case-saver or chain guard grinding/modifications, and allows you to keep the stock chain (remove one more tooth to a 38T sprocket and you need to shorten your chain, probably to 109 or 108 links (unconfirmed, just my guess). So 70MPH = 7000 RPM. You will always feel in control of the Suzuki which seems desperate to do what you ask of it within its limits. Now that youve had this for a few years, would you do it again? But its got wide pegs so you can stand up. The ACT gearset only changes 2nd through 5th gear; 1st gear remains stock. Help on: Final Drive Ratio graph (Bike independant). Now on my second 400SM as someone else decided they would like my black 2007 model so took it from outside my front door, now have blue/white 2008 model & only difference is the brake fluid resevoir is slightly higher. Its a trafic jam ultimate weapon. Your email (so we can send you the answer). Of course, your mileage may vary. If you really want an S and are looking at road riding, adding firmer springs to the forks will remove a lot of the dive while swapping the shocks spring (or investing in an aftermarket unit) will make the back end far more supportive for not a great deal of outlay. I ride an R1 in the sunny weather, but if i'm going down country lanes i will take the DRZ. Windblast (Cee Baileys now make a screen, I haven't tried it). Just exactly what I was searching for. In town the gixer was cumbersome and intimidating and there are no nice twisty roads in the area where i live. Excellent question. i think that is about 40US miles per gallon. Gixer wouldnt be even rideable after this one. Is this also the same for the 400 S, or would I need to change the. I prefer this one here anyway. How does the 38 do? The SM did suffer from this problem in the beginning but now it seems to have cured itself and has done 7000 milesin 12months. Bauer Media Group consists of: Bauer Consumer Media Ltd, Company number: 01176085, Bauer Radio Ltd, Company Number: 1394141 The two complaints I have with the DRZ are buzziness at highway speeds (my hands go numb after about 30 minutes of riding at 70 mph) and wind. While the gap between 1st and 2nd is noticeably wider with the ACT gearset than the stock DRZ, it is not so large as to make the bike less capable on challenging terrain. Light, manoeuvrable, and loads on fun on short journeys -makes a BMW 1200 GS feel like a massive unwieldy wildebeest. DUCMANs I do SFA tar work so I don't mind the lower gearing. Fuel consumption hasn,t changed & betters any of my mates DR650.Not as comfortable as the DR650 on the road ,the lighter weight more susceptible to wind buffering ,soon forgotten about once off road.I to have a buzz/resonance happening but only noticeable on rides more than 5 hrs with long Highway stretches.My previous ride was a BMW xchallenge which was to big for the trail riding I do now, so the KLX is close to what I need.I am 60 Yrs old & have a number of other bikes & this little machine is a thrill everytime I ride it. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Doesn't rev like a 2 stroke though-despite what some people say Has a few design/reliabilty issues which need curing first but then its bullet proof Much better bike than my old KMX200 visit www.thumpertalk.com/forum for tips from other owners. The seat however, is unbearable, but depends on how bony or soft your backside is. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, SOCAL SUPERMOTO - San Diego Motorcycle Training, http://www.vsmr.net/modules.php?namwnloaddetails&lid=1&ttitle=Gearing_Calculator, http://www.supermotoaus.com/files/Motard%20Gearing.xls, http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DJFireUsa/?action=view¤t=IMG_20110905_035653.jpg, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. Where did you get a 39T rear and who makes it. FMF Ti full exhaust and iridium plug have freed up breathing and pickup, top fun but exhaust a bit noisy, so made baffle as I am a bit more responsible now (42)Finish easily marked but not treated with kid gloves.
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